Last week we reviewed the folding stove and made
a spot of tea with my stainless steel kettle. Well this week we will be
exploring more about collecting, purifying, and storing water. It is commonly
accepted the human body needs 8 (8oz.) glasses of water a day. Now if you are
in a home with running water this is not a very difficult task to achieve day
to day. However, if you are trekking through the woods or setting up a camp for
the weekend. This task that we take for granted becomes somewhat problematic.
So knowing that each day a human needs ½ a gallon of water (64oz) you have to
plan how you are going to obtain that.
So, ideas? Well, obviously you could carry it in
your pack; or could you? Water weighs, according to Wikipedia, 8.34 lbs. per gallon.
That would be 4.17 lbs. (1/2 gallon) for a day and 12.51 lbs. (1 ½ gallons) for
a 3 day stay. Also let’s say that you will not have a
vehicular conveyance, so between 26 and 36 lbs. will be all you can carry. Imagine
taking your typical pack weighing about 30lbs plus the 12.51 for adding a
gallon and a half of water to that you couldn’t spill one drop of to get you a
total of 42 and ½ lbs. And I hate to mention, but some people don’t agree with
the half gallon. Some say it is more like a gallon a day, some even suggest
more.
I know, you want another option. Well the only
other option is finding and purifying water to obtain that half gallon. Now you
can do this in different fashions. You could draw moisture into a cup using a
solar still. You could desalinate the water (boil the water out of the solution
and collect the pure water vapors in a different container.) The problem with
both of these is they can take some time and they don’t provide nearly enough.
But if you have a source of fresh running water your best bet is to
collect
some and boil it. Boiling water for about 1 minute will kill 99% of diseases you
could find in it. Other than boiling this water you could also use water
purification pellets or bleach to cleanse it. However the problem with the
purification pellets or bleach is that it will eventually they will run out. So
better make sure you can still boil water in whatever you are using.
When boiling water for purification there are a
few different materials you could use. Most common and what I recommend is a
stainless steel bottle. Aluminum or titanium are also modern favorites, while
tin or copper are more traditional kit items. Clay pots or wooden containers
can even be used if you are going along the primitive route. However using the
latter material will require hot stones, but that’s another blog. For this week
we will be looking at stainless steel bottles.
Now, I’m a cheap man, I like to save a buck or
two when I can, and with that I always do these blogs with that in mind. So
this bottle, like most of mine was discounted. For only $5, I had a perfect
bottle for my Bushcraft-antics. Now not all bottles are made the same. Anything
plastic is basically useless. Only a few people know how to boil water in a
plastic
bottle. Dave Canterbury has a video on YouTube doing it. However, most
metal bottle you find will work, however I look for these characteristics. - Stainless steel
- Single walled
- Completely metal when broken down
- Able to tie a strap to for carrying
- (extra) Dave Canterbury recommends it hold 32 oz. or a quart
My bottle
meets all of these criteria. You can see that it says stainless steel directly
on the bottle, however you can also tell this by noting that it is cheaper and
lighter than titanium and will not dent as easily as aluminum.
Second,
this bottle is indeed single-walled. If you see terms like “temperature
control,” “double wall,” “thermos,” or “insulated,” this is not a bottle you
would want to boil water in. A thermos has two walls because it is designed to
retain the temperature of whatever it is holding inside. Therefore, you will
expend more energy heating the bottle hot enough to boil water. If you are
In regards to the extra this canteen holds around 1.1 Quart or 4.5 cups, this is ideal since most purification tabs or bleach methods work with 1 quart at a time. Also 2-4 quarts (1 gallon) is what
most people recommend you need a day. Any smaller container requires you boil
more water a day, thus expending more energy.
Now since this is going to be spending a lot of
time in the fire I am going to need something to coat the outside. Most people don’t care a lot about the soot and ash that
gets on it however it does bother
To start I begin by sanding the bottle all over.
This will help the spray paint to stick on to the bottle. The sand paper
doesn't really matter. I am using 220 grit but it could be anything. The next
step is important. Take masking tape and place it over the cover. Doing this
will prevent the spray paint from getting into the water chamber, ensuring it won’t
get contaminated. After all that it is ready to spray paint. I start by placing
the bottle on its bottom and spraying the top. Afterward I flip it over so I can
get the bottom. I want as even of a coat as I can get. After the first round I
let it sit and dry for about an
hour then repeat the process. Any spots where it looks too built up I just sand back down and even it out.
Once I’m happy with it about 3 coats later
I remove the tape and place it in the fire to cure the paint upon it. Instead this
time I decided to use my rocket stove. We will talk more about the rocket stove in future posts. The goal is to get the bottle to the temperature of future fires it will be
in. Some may call this a burnout. Doing this over a camp fire is preferred
however that is only 1 of 3 ways I know how to cure. The rocket stove is the 2nd and also the closest to the campfire. Now while doing this you need to get the temperature up as high as possible so that the paint can set in.
I spend
quite a bit of time feeding the fuel and fanning the flames, but, after the
flames start licking at it I let it start to die down and let the bottle cool. I
think it is important to allow the opening to face down toward the fire. After the bottle cools I take it back inside and clean it up a bit. After that I used some bank line to make a strap, though any cordage could've worked.
I choose bank line because I have a lot of it and I wanted to spend more time working with it. The knots I used were simple bowline on one carbineer and just an overhand knot on the other side. This allows me to adjust my canteen whenever I want with just a move of the cord. The carbineers are great for easy removal of the canteen and gets it to the fire more quickly. Could I have done it without them? Yes.
Instead of tying the knot to the carbineers, I could tie them to the canteen itself. This would decrease on weight slightly and less parts to fool with. Also if the carbineers are needed to be used somewhere else I could do that.
Instead of tying the knot to the carbineers, I could tie them to the canteen itself. This would decrease on weight slightly and less parts to fool with. Also if the carbineers are needed to be used somewhere else I could do that.
Well I hope this blog has helped you all in a
big way on finding a good bottle. This is vital for cooking and drinking water
in the bush. While the primitive way can be done, with the water bottle it is
just too simple, too quick, and too durable to look for alternatives. Trust
me. Next week I will be showing you more about containers,
specifically problems with pre-made mess kit, and how to build what I believe is the best and cheapest you could do. Remember it’s one of the 5 C's and you don't want to miss it. See
you then! As always feel free to comment, share this blog, and check back
next week for a new one. Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on
for me.
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