Getting to the Point: Other Uses for Canvas Needles in Survival Situations

Last week we looked at different fabric and threading materials. This week we are going to look at our canvas needle as a multi purpose tool to really see what this thing can do. You may have several ideas spring to mind, number one being a compass. To start off with I am going to show you a few things you can pack to make sure you have a compass with you at all times.

The first thing you want is a AA battery and to make sure that your battery has power, you can hold the positive end to your compass and move it around to see if your compass needle will follow it. If it does, you have a good battery. I am now going to take an iron or steel sewing needle and I am going to swipe the tip against the tip of the positive end of the battery about 40-50 times. This magnetizes the needle. The next thing I am going to need is a tea light candle. Now if you remember in the candle blog I said that I wasn't going to pack a tea light candle, however, I am going to keep one wherever I keep my needle because I will be using it as a flotation device. Now I am placing my candle in the bowl of water and placing the needle on top of it. At this point it is as simple as waiting for the magnetized end of the needle to find north.

Now there are other ways to create a compass without having to float your needle. If you use some of the thread you have with you like I recommended in the last blog, you can tie a loop around the middle of your magnetized needle. You'll have to be careful to make sure that your needle is parallel to the floor for this to work. Now it will begin spinning but when it comes to a stop the magnetized end will be pointing north. It's a little creepy.

You could think of it as a cleaning/maintenance tool. You could use it to clean under your nails. You could roll or scrape debris out of an open would to prevent an infection. With that being said you could use it to patch yourself up with stitches or field medicine, but I think, or at least I really hope, we're a long ways away from having to practice field medicine.You could use it as a toothpick or if you get cysts like I get in my earlobes, you can use it as a lance. You could use it to pick out splinters or other foreign objects from your skin as well.

Now we are getting into the realm of fishing and trapping. Some people would tell you to heat it up and turn it over into a fish hook, but I am not one of those people. You would have to get it very hot and bend it very slowly because it would snap. I do think that it would work well as a gouge hook if you had something to help it float and prevent it from sinking to the very bottom. Theoretically you could put multiple needles together and use it as a frog gig. These ideas are all fine and good, however, if you're fishing for survival I think your best bet is going to be some type of netting system. You could use this in a windless trap for small rodents so it will stab them in the head and pin them down. I wouldn't recommend using it with a mouse trap though as it would likely break.

In terms of cooking you could use your needle to test if your dough is cooked all the way through. You could use it to pin your fish to a board if you choose to cook it or descale it that way. You may even be able to use your needle to descale the fish. If your needle was thick enough and able to bear the weight, you could use it as a toggle for your water bottle when you are boiling water over your fire. Of course you should be sure to test all of your equipment at home before taking it out and trying it in the field.

Well, I am now out of ideas for what you could possibly use a needle for. If you have any more ideas feel free to comment and tell me. I would love to hear your ideas. Next week will be our first review of 2018. We are going to review my Walmart canvas needle vs. some other canvas needles. Now the ones I've purchased are supposed to be the same ones the Dave Canterbury uses but I was unable to purchase them off of his website so I purchased them off of Amazon so they would arrive a little quicker. Either way, you know you don't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Survival Sewing: Testing Sewing Materials for Survival

Last week we opened into our homecraft sewing kit and practiced some very basic stitches that you can pick up and learn easily. This week we are going to look at sewing for survival in terms of making repairs by using different threading materials on different types of fabric. This way we will see which thread is best for which type of fabric.

To explain the parameters of the test, I am going to be using two different types of needle, a canvas needle and a sail needle, and use various different threads on various fabrics you may need to repair in a survival situation. The thread I will be using is the upholstery thread from last week (this will act as our control thread), the inner strands of paracord, a smaller strand of unraveled bankline, and some jute twine that will act as natural cordage. The fabric I have selected is the pillow sham we used last week, (this will act as our control fabric), denim, canvas, and supple and non-supple leather. We will be sewing the fabric together using a running stitch. If we are unable to perform the running stitch then we will attempt the whip or loop stitch. We will then be testing the strength of the thread and the fabric by trying to pull it apart.

After preparing all of my materials I am going to begin with the canvas needle, the upholstery thread, and the pillow sham. The running stitch with both the canvas and sail needle was very strong on the pillow sham as I expected of the control group. The upholstery thread performed well on the denim with both needles as well. I did have one issue when using the upholstery thread with the sail needle on the canvas. The stitches did begin to pull apart, but I do believe it was my sewing rather than the thread not being strong enough. I didn't have any problems with the canvas needle however. The leather I did not believe would hold the upholstery thread when I began to sew with the canvas needle so I didn't even try with the sail needle.

 Now we will go through the fabric again, this time with the inner strand of paracord. I was able to sew the pillow sham with both the canvas needle and the sail needle, however, the inner strand of the paracord was so strong and thick that when I began to pull it apart, it actually ripped the fabric around it. The experiment was also successful for both denim and canvas with both needles. The paracord was strong and held the material well. I was able to do a whip stitch into the leather with the sail needle. The difficulty I was having was getting the needle to pierce the leather. I would have had more luck if I had an awl. As for the paracord, it was able to hold the leather together.

Similar to when I sewed the pillow sham with the paracord, the bank line was so thick and strong that it caused the fabric around it to rip. Unlike the paracord, I am able to break down the bank line into finer strands. This may be more compatible with the pillow sham, but that is an experiment for another day. I had great success with both needles, the bank line and the denim. Unfortunately when using the bank line with the canvas, it ripped with both needles. Again I believe that if I broke the bank line down into finer strands I would have more success, but for this test I would consider this a fail. The canvas needle was able to do a whip stitch with the bank line and it held the leather well.

The jute twine was so thick that I was unable to pull it through any of the fabric, including the leather, with either needle. I did attempt to unravel the jute in the beginning into finer strands, however, the finer strands by themselves are so weak that they will break if you pull on them.

After finishing the test I compiled a chart with all of the data. On the left side of the chart is my fabric material and at the top are the thread materials I used. Each box has a section for the canvas needle and the sail needle. Basically if the combination of needle, thread and fabric was a success I marked it with a check. If the combination was a failure, I marked it with an X. The winner between the two needles was definitely the canvas needle since it was able to make a hole in the leather as well as use all of the same materials as the sail needle even though it was narrower. And the upholstery thread was definitely the handiest of all of our threading material since it was able to sew and hold almost all of the fabric material well.

Next week we will be looking at our needle not just as a sewing tool, but as a  multipurpose tool. What else can this sewing needle do for us in a survival situation? You won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Leaving You in Stitches: Simple Sewing Stitches You Should Know

This is the first blog of 2018! This year we are going to be picking up with another C from David Canterbury's 10 C's of Survivability. In the last blog we ended on candle, and this year we will be picking up with canvas needles. To start this off, I have purchased Dritz Homecraft Needles, European Quality with 7 needles included. This kit cost me about $1.75 at Walmart. Included in this kit are sail, sack, canvas, carpet, leather, and two upholstery needles. A total of 7 needles.

The sail needles can be identified by having a slight bend at the tip of the needle. The sack needle has a large eye and a blunt tip. The upholstery needles are both C-shaped, I have a large one and a small one. I can identify the canvas needle by its triangular shaped tip. With the two that are left I know that the smaller needle with the larger eye is the carpet needle and the one that is slightly bigger is the leather needle.

Let me begin by saying that if you are going to sew anything for your survival needs, I highly recommend that you use upholstery thread. It is thick, stiff, and very durable. It's thick enough that when I begin to thread it through the eye I do not need to lick it to make it straighten out. All I am going to do is feed the thread through the eye about an inch or so, fold it over onto the tail and pull. If the thread doesn't separate from the needle, I know that it has been successfully threaded. Now I am going to draw out the tail about 18" and tie an overhand not near the end of the thread I will be sewing with. Now we are ready to sew.

The first stitch we are going to talk about today is called the running stitch. To begin I am going to insert my needle through both pieces of fabric and pull it all the way through to the knot. I am then going to go back through the fabric in the opposite direction leaving a bit of a loop. I am then going to go from the underside of the fabric on top of the stitch and through the loop and pull it tight. I have now locked my thread in place. After going through the fabric I am going to lay my needle flat, judge an adequate distance (about a half inch or so) and push it through the other side of the fabric again, repeating the process. Once I have gotten all the way to the end, I am going to stretch the fabric taught  and make sure there is no slack in and then I am going to lock the thread like I did in the beginning.

The second stitch is called the whip stitch or the loop stitch. This stitch is not going to weave in and out of the fabric like I did before. This time I am going to be going in one direction in one continuous motion. First I am going to lock into the fabric, then letting the thread rest on top, I am going to go behind the fabric and pull it through. Then I am going to repeat by bringing the thread around to the same side I just went through and pulling it through again in the same direction.

The third stitch is called the blanket stitch. After locking it in you will go through the back starting off much like we did with the whip stitch. Only this time instead of the loop being in our way, we are going to incorporate it by pulling our needle through the loop and repeating the process. Again this is very similar to the whip stitch, but we are going through the loop instead of pulling it down. I like the blanket stitch because it is a very strong stitch and is good for rounding corners.

The last stitch is called the hidden or ladder stitch. This stitch is good for mending tears in your clothes. I am going to lock in below the tear on the inside of the fabric and as the name suggests this stitch is going to resemble a ladder. I am going to go through one side of the rip and leave a loop then pull through the loop. I am then going to go through the other side of the rip and repeat. I am going to go back and forth like this down the length of the rip until I get past it. At this point I am going to go through the fabric and pull until the tear cinches shut. This just leaves a fold on the outside of the fabric so no stitching shows through.

If this got a little confusing to read, I do have a corresponding video on my YouTube channel Backpack Bushcraft. If you take nothing else away from this video just remember if I can sew, anyone can sew and probably do a better job than I did. Next week we are going to look at different materials to sew or mend in a survival situation as well as different thread materials that you may have to sew with. You won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est) or Wednesday 12pm for our new Comic Bumbling Bushcraft. If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Lighting Up the Night: Deciding on an Electric Illumination Device

Last week after we finished building our tin can lanterns, I said we would be looking at "electric candles" this week, or rather electric illumination devices. This week I have a few items I purchased from Walmart for about $1 each, one item was about $5. I also have an item that I have for any years that I am going to show you today that is a bit on the high end side. Let's get into it.

The first item is a $1 LED Flashlight that takes 3
AAA batteries. It is very simple, there is one button to press to turn it on and off. The thing I like about flashlights is that they are very bright. If you are looking for something or need to see ahead in front of you, a flashlight is definitely what you want. however the one thing I don't like is that if I hold the flashlight above my head, you aren't going to see much around me. This is because the flashlight doesn't have any radiating illumination, but it is more geared toward focused illumination.

Our next item came out about ten years ago or so. This one I got for $1, but they used to go for $30 or so. I'm talking about a headlamp. The one I have can point straight a head, two different downward pointing angles, and straight down. When I point the lamp straight down it shines more in my face than anything. I used to use the headlamp for frog gigging. You would angle the headlamp down and look for the reflection in the frog's eyes, then use the gig stick. The headlamp is great for this because of the hands free illumination. Now the headlamp has a second feature. If you have a clear water bottle filled with water, and you attach your headlamp to it with the light source facing inside the bottle and turn it on, you now have a radiating light source. Now it's not as good as other items, but you could definitely use it to illuminate the inside of your tarp or tent. Another item I have similar to the headlamp is the cap light. It's just like the headlamp, but you attach it to your hat.

In my opinion it is a lot brighter than the headlamp and it eliminates the only problem I have with it. Since it wraps around your head it can very easily be too loose and fall off, or too tight and give you a headache. Unfortunately the flashlight is still brighter than both of them. The other thing is that both of these items take what I consider to be a watch battery so that is inconvenient as well.

Next we have an electric lantern that was $5 at Walmart. It has three different button press features. One click will give you radiating illumination, by which I mean the light radiates out from its central source. Two clicks gives a solid red light. It could be used for emergencies, signaling or stalking. Three clicks is a strobe red light which is clearly meant for getting attention in an emergency situation. The lantern also has a bell, which unfortunately isn't rounded or humped, so it is prone to sliding on whatever you hang it on. Lastly, if I need focused illumination, I can wrap my hand around the walls of the lantern and shine it in any direction I need to see in. This is not something you can do with a fire, candle, or oil lantern. If you touch the lantern with your hand you will burn it.

The next item and my favorite item is a solar powered flashlight and lantern. When you turn it on there is a beam of focused light, and it pulls apart like an accordion into a lantern. It has another setting to make it brighter, a well as a strobe for emergency situations. I really like this because it is solar powered which means I don't have to carry any batteries with me, however, if you don't charge it every day, it will not work. It also has two different ports, one for a USB. Theoretically you could use these port to charge other devices, however, I have never gotten this feature to work. Now we are going to set up a test for our electric devices. I will have a paper with a word written on it and we will stand at 10, 20, and 30 feet to see how close we need to be to read the words with these devices.

So starting off at 30 ft. I can see the paper clearly with the flashlight, but can barely make it out with the headlamp, cap light, and lantern. At 20 ft. the paper is still very clearly visible with the flashlight and I am now able to start making it out with the headlamp, cap light and lantern. At 10 ft. with the flashlight I can now see that there is a word on the page and I will begin walking forward until I can read it. At about 8 ft. I can see that the paper clearly says "Miniature." Tearing that sign down I tried again with the headlamp. I had to move up to about 5 ft. to read the sign that said "Allergy." With the cap light I could read the sign that said "Yesterday" at 6 ft. So like we thought the cap light is a bit better than the headlamp, however neither are as good as the flashlight. With the lantern I get to about 7ft. before I can read the word "Calzone." No we are going to start over at 30 ft. with the solar power lantern and see how it fares. At 30 ft. I can see the sign with the flashlight, but not the lantern. At 20 ft. the paper again becomes visible with the lantern. At 10 ft. I can almost read the sign with the flashlight, but I need to move up  about a foot to see that it says "Spaceship." The lantern unfortunately can't make out the word until I am about 4 ft. away from it.

We have now reached that part of the blog where I choose an item to put into my pack. I have decided to call it "The Packening." Yeah. While trying to put my solar lantern away I managed to drop it and break the handle so I'll need to do some repairs with some pipe cleaner.  So now I have to choose between the other four items. I won't be taking either the headlamp or the cap light. While I do appreciate the hands free illumination I think these items would do better in a hunting kit. The lantern I won't take because it's a bit bulky and honestly, it is only one more battery, but it is still one more than the flashlight requires. The flashlight ultimately was the best out of the four items and I could always use another one.

Next week we will be choosing a candle for our lantern and talking about what your candle should be able to do. You won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Burning Bright: Construction of a Tin Can Lantern

Last week we finished up our compass series and I said we would be talking about candles. This week I have prepared a craft relevant to this subject that is very important bushcraft, and, it is relatively cheap to make. This week, we will be making tin can lanterns. Now this has many uses for bushcraft and I am basically going to make my sales pitch for why I think Candle should be one of the C's. In addition to providing heat, it also provides lighting. When I did my camp with items from just the first 5 C's, there would times I would want to be reading, but I was completely at the mercy of the sun. The sun would set around 7-8 pm and with 8 hours of sleep that would have me waking up at 4 am, which is not great. With a lantern I could read, write, twist cord, sharpen arrows, construct a trap, or basically anything that I could do to prepare for camp the next day even after the sun goes down. Instead of building a campfire for light and expending all that fuel, a lantern provides enough light while using little fuel. Just wax, tallow, or any lipid substance.

The first item we need to make our tin can lanterns is a tin can. Specifically a can with a sealed top, not one of the "pop top" cans. The walls of these are weaker and they will split when you fill them up and freeze them, but we'll get to that later. The other thing is corn. Corn is not a mushy vegetable and won't get stuck when we cut a hole in the bottom to drain out what's inside. Mushy vegetable like peas  will get stuck and are a mess to clean out. You will need a hammer and nail, some type of snips to cut the can with (I got mine at Walmart and paid $5-7 for a pack of 3), a bowl to catch the corn, and a towel to protect your work space.

The first step is to use the hammer and nail to poke holes in the bottom of the can in the shape of a circle. We will then use the snips to cut out that circle shape, and drain the contents of the can into the bowl. An important thing to note here is that you should not consume the food that comes out of the can. There is a possibility that a piece of metal could have gotten in and contaminated the food. Please, do not eat this food. The next thing we are going to do is fill the can with water and freeze it for 24 hours. By freezing water inside the can, the ice braces it so that the can does not dent when you hit the nail into it. To make your design, your are going to poke holes and make  a sort of "connect the dots" image. You won't be able to get much detail, but what you can do is use bigger holes for the main points of the image, and use smaller holes to guide the eye and fill out the image a bit more. There are two ways you can do this. I actually drew out a star and traced the image over the can by making holes, but I wasn't too pleased with the outcome. This time, I am going to free hand.

After making your design (I made the Viking rune for fire, light, etc. "Kenaz") I am going to go on either side of my design near the top of the can and make a hole on each side. This is going to be where I put the bell of my lantern. The next thing we want to do is create an opening for the candle. You can create a circle or a square; I am going to make a square because it is easier to make the square safe in my opinion. On the opposite side of the can as your design, you're going to find the middle of the two bell holes you just made, and make a hole near the BOTTOM of the can. I am then going to measure 3/4" to the left and poke a hole, and 3/4" to the right and poke a hole. This gives me a line about 1 1/2" long. The reason I have picked this length is because that is the size of candle I am going to use. I will then measure 1 1/2" up from the corners and create my square.

To melt the ice quickly, I simply place it in the sink and run hot water over the can for about five minutes. Now I can cut out the shape of the square we just outlined with the snips. Now I am going to take some steps to make the lantern safer to handle so I don't get cut on the jagged metal.  You could use a file to file down the sharp points, but I am going to use duct tape. The duct tape will heat up with a candle lit inside the lantern, but it will still stick. Plus, even if it does eventually melt away, if I have a kit made up of the 10 C's of Survivability, repairs are no problem. To make the bell I have taken a metal clothes hanger and cut a section of it about 20" long. Take one end of the clothes hanger and feed it through the two bell holes you made at the top of your can. Line them up at the top and slowly begin to fold the ends over each other. You really need to do this slowly because the hanger will crack. Once the ends are folded over, I like to wrap them in duct tape to, again, keep the ends from scratching or cutting my hand. And again if the tape were to come off repairs are easily and quickly made in the field.

And with that our lantern is finished. Just another word of warning when your lantern is lit, do not
touch the can above the top of the square as it will heat up quickly and it does get pretty hot. These lanterns are cheap and very easy to make. You can make them this way or find other methods that work for you, either way, I definitely recommend these. Next week we will be talking about flashlights, the "electronic candle." You won't want to miss it. As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

me.

Getting Around With Something New: A Review of UST's Explorer Tool

Last week we made ranger beads and did some walking with them to try to lock in our pace. This week as promised we will be doing a review. Today we have UST Technologies 4-in-1 Explorer Tool. I will go ahead and state right now that I don't think that there are four tools here. I think one of the tools that they include in the 4 is just an offset of one of the other tools, however, the lanyard that comes attached to the tool could be counted as the fourth, and we will be talking about why here in a bit. The dimensions of this product are 3.75" in length, 1.5" wide, the lanyard is 5 times the length, and it is very lightweight. I very much like these things about the product. You can put it in your pocket, it your EDC kit and it's pretty much ready to take with you wherever you go.

Let's take a look at the features of this product. Since this is the compass series, let's start with the compass. This compass is going to be different than any other compass you've seen in this series because the face doesn't move, you have to move it yourself manually by rotating the entire tool. The only thing that moves on this compass is the needle which will always point North. To find your direction, line the needle up with north on the compass, then imagining your own travel arrow on the compass, find your direction. I like that the cardinal directions are indicated in large lettering on the compass as well as the degree system. The numbers 20, 40, 60, etc. are labeled in large numbers with large lines between them representing 30, 50, 70, etc. as well as smaller tic marks between them representing increments of 5.

The second feature and I believe the reason people buy this product are the folding binoculars. Simply fold out all four lenses and use the adjustable wheel to make it clear for you to see through. These binoculars are times 4 magnification and the lenses are 32 millimeters in length. The center of binoculars give me a crystal clear view of what I'm looking at but the outer ring of the lens is blurry and disorienting and it causes me to be nauseous when looking through it. In my opinion, if you only fold out one set of lenses and focus with one eye, it will minimize that effect and make them easier to use. Think spotting scope.

The signaling mirror is the third feature of this product. I did this review in doors and was able to reflect light well off of the lighting in the house and I got good results outside with natural light as well. In addition to signaling you could also use this mirror to check behind you or use it to dress a wound if it's in a location that is difficult for you to see well.

The last feature that is included in the 4-in-1 title is a magnifying glass. You can see clearly that it can help you start a fire, but that  is about the only use you will get out of it in the woods. Of course you can  use it to magnify an object, presumably times four, I believe that this is only a feature of the binoculars.  Yes it is a magnifying glass as well, but to me it seemed like a stretch  making that a fourth feature.

The lanyard however, could be considered a true fourth

feature. It is made of some sturdy cord, as hard as I've tried, I can't break it. What I've done is tied two simple knots in my lanyard and thought to myself, "I could make ranger beads." I wouldn't use actual beads being that there are two strands and they would not maintain the same tension at all times/ I would however use paracord because it will have something to hold on to and I can dress the cord as tightly as I need it. And as you can see you have plenty of room for any set up, be it 9 and 4 or 6 and 7 as well as having room for your forester beads.

I spent about $5 for this product at Walmart and I would say it's about worth that. I've seen it go for about $8 on Amazon as well. If you use the scope instead of using binoculars on the side of the compass you really do have an all-in-one explorer tool. You can spot where you need to go, use the compass to get your bearing, use your ranger beads to keep track of how far you walked from your original location, and when you arrive at your destination you can use your signaling mirror if you're in a lot of trouble. The biggest problem I have is that these tools are all very beginner. The compass would be extremely difficult to use with a map and as for the binoculars, times 4 magnification is not going to do much for you in the woods. Overall I give this product a 3/5.

Now where would be the ideal place to put this tool?  I wouldn't recommend putting it in your bush kit unless you were completely new to compass and navigation. This would be a cheap item that you could practice and learn with. I wouldn't put it in my hunting kit because I would really need pair of binoculars, and let's be honest, the binoculars are the worst feature of this tool. If you think about it, this tool is compact, has a lot of reusability, and you can familiarize yourself with them easily. Where have I heard all of those terms before? EDC kit! This would make an excellent addition to your EDC kit and even if you can't fit it inside, you can tie it off to the outside with the lanyard and have it ready to go if you need it.

That's it for this week's blog. Next week we will be starting our second C in our second set of C's, which will be candle. You won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Beads You Can Count On: Making Ranger Beads to Aid With Navigation

Last week we talked about binoculars which are a best friend to the compass and did some survival drills with them at our local park. This week, we are going to be making a craft that is going to help us keep pace a little better on the trail, and that craft comes in the form of ranger beads. I will be showing you how to make these, as well as making ranger beads entirely out of paracord, and talking about the different kinds of ranger beads you might encounter. Lastly we'll be heading to a local walking track where I will be practicing with my ranger beads and trying to learn my pace. Let's get started.

What are ranger/pace beads? They are beads on a piece of paracord, or string, whichever you prefer, and you move the beads up once you have gone a certain distance to keep track of how far you have walked. I actually have two sets of ranger beads, one is set up to mark kilometers, and the other is set to mark miles. We will be going over the kilometer beads first because this is the one most people prefer, and are also the true ranger beads because they go by clicks. On the bottom set you have 9 beads that represent 100 meters each. After you have walked 100 meters, you will push up a bead until you have pushed up all 9 beads, which is 900 meters. Once you reach 1000 meters, you will then push up one of the 4 beads on the top set, which is one click. You will then reset your bottom set of 9 beads and start over. The mile beads are set up similarly except you have 6 on one leg, and 7 on the other. The set of 7 beads represent 1/16 of a mile each. once you have reached 8/16 of a mile and have no more beads, you move up one of your 6 beads which represents 1/2 a mile each.


If you are walking with the mile marker beads, you will be able to count 3 and just about half of a fourth mile. If you are walking with the kilometer beads, you will be able to count 4 and just about a 5th kilometer. Either way, both sets are made up of 13 beads total. If I wanted to convert my kilometer beads into mile beads, I simply undo the knot separating the two sets of beads, move two up from the set of 9 into the set of 4, and I now have a set of 7 and a set of 6. I will then re-tie the knot, being careful to leave an even amount of space and not tying it too tight so that I can't undo it later.

Now I used wooden beads for mine, but you can use regular beads if you like. My problem is, I don't especially like the beads. I notice that they tend to slip, some of them in particular are really bad for it. I wanted to make a set that wouldn't slip and I didn't want to have to worry about buying more beads. I got the idea from a video (How To Tie Paracord Ranger Beads Method 1) and the guy actually tied his paracord into beads and attached them that way. I went in a bit of a different direction with it. I simply took strips of paracord and tied them into a normal overhand knot. They slide well along the paracord they are tied off to, and they actually hold in place really well where I slide them. For my paracord ranger beads I have a set of 6, a set of 7, and a third set of 4 that I'll talk about here in a minute. Whether you have 4 and 9 or 6 and 7, you will sometimes find a set of 4 beads at the bottom called forester beads. The forester beads are meant to keep track of every 20 meters OR 22 yards. Sometimes when you walk through the woods your pace may be uneven due to the terrain, so you can use the forester beads to mark those distances. Once you move up all four forester beads, you can move up your first 1/16 of a mile marker, or your first 100 meter marker.

Let's talk about how to make one of your own. First take your length of paracord and tie a loop into the top of it. This loop serves as your means of tying it to your pack, belt, walking stick, etc. To make a loop fold your paracord over, give yourself some distance, and tie it off. Now, I like to use two different colors of paracord for this, but now I am going to start adding the strips that will be my counters. to do this, I wrap a new color of paracord around the original that we just tied a loop in, tie an overhand knot, dress it as tight as I can, and then cut it as close as possible to the knot with a knife or scissors. You will repeat tying off the strips of paracord until you had 13 beads total. Then you could separate them however you wanted, and tie a knot off between them. The next thing we need to do is some prevention to keep the ends from fraying. What I have done is taken a lit candle and held the ends of

the paracord I cut close to the flame. You do not actually have to get it into the flame or catch it on fire. If you do, just blow it out gently, no harm done. You just want to melt down the edges of the mantle and the inner string. This will keep the paracord from fraying and falling apart so you get the most use out of your ranger beads.

Our next mission is to head to our local walking track and use the ranger beads to get my pace put in. I have with me on my walk my ranger beads, a pedometer, and a paper that tells me how many steps I need to take to complete 1/16 of a mile depending on my stride. Your stride is the distance you  clear within 2 steps. Based on this, it should take me 83 steps to walk 1/16 of a mile.

After pushing up all of my forester beads I am now ready to push up my first 1/16 of a mile bead. Now it looks like I'm off this first time and was going a bit too fast so I'll try again. The problem I had was that the steps I was counting and the pedometer were not syncing up. When I should have been 1/12 of a mile in, my pedometer said I was 1/10 of a mile in. So what I tried next was resetting everything on the pedometer and trying again while watching the pedometer. Based on the pedometer it took me about 125 steps to clear the 1/16 of a mile. If I divide that into 5 for the forester beads, I'm looking at moving up a bead every 25 steps so that is something I will have to keep in mind. When I began my nature walk I counted 25 steps, moved a forester bead, and repeated that process. The trail I walked was supposed to be about 1.2 miles. At the end I think I may have been a bit overzealous. I had 1 6/16 of a mile and 44 yards. Overall my pace may still need some work to get it accurate.

It is now that time again where we add another item to our pack. This week isn't very difficult as the paracord ranger beads as the only item I used. I'm simply going to attach this to a loop that is on the right shoulder strap of my pack because I am right handed. The only problem I had was the loosening of the paracord strips. I myself am not too worried about it as I can just tighten them down, melt them in to place, or if worse comes to worse I can just replace it even in the field. Next week we will be doing a review of an all in one option, you don't want to miss it. As always feel free to comment, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Set A Course For Survival: Compass Basics and Survival Drills

Last week we finished out our series on our EDC kits. If you missed any of those blogs feel free to go back and read them, there was some very good information there! The videos are also posted on our Youtube channel (backpack bushcraft) if you missed those as well. This week we are going to begin a new series on compasses. I have three compasses that I am going to be going over and discussing advantages and disadvantages. Afterwards we will be going to a local park and doing two survival drills. The first is finding yourself on a map using just a compass, and second is getting from point A to point B using just a map and compass. Lastly we will review the compass and we are going to do a new little ceremony of adding the item to our backpack. Let's get into it.

First we are going to talk about button compasses. Mine is not a traditional button compass as you can tell as it comes with the button compass, a whistle, a thermometer, and a magnifying glass. The button compass has a travel arrow, a floating needle, all the cardinal directions already labeled, and will spin to point north at all times. Because the compass always points north the travel arrow indicates which direction you are more than likely facing. The one problem that I have with this is that it does not have the degrees labelled on the compass, instead there are just tick marks. Now, you could likely easily enough figure out the degree based on the tick marks, as well as get around pretty well with it, however, if you are going to be using a map, you're going to want to check out the next compass.


The next compass, what I call the modern compass is what I was trained to use. It has a clear base with a ruler as well as a mile and kilometer indicator. This lets you line it up on your map and estimate how far away a destination on your map is from your position. The rotating dial and housing which allows the needle to find north by locking it into the two dots (what David Canterbury call the "doghouse"). This allows you to find your true position. An advantage of this type of compass is that it is clear so you can lay it on a map to find your way and still be able to read the map underneath it. The disadvantage are that the tick marks are very fine and can be difficult to read when pinpointing your exact position. I would still prefer to use this compass, however the next compass is even more precise.

Lastly we have a traditional or military style compass. You can see that it has the floating needle similar to the button compass as well as a rotating dial similar to the modern compass. Some key features of this compass is the level in the bottom corner as well as a spot for a tripod so you can hold it on the ground and make sure it is level. There is also a set of cross hairs which you can use to more accurately pinpoint the location of a far off object. At the base of the compass there is a scope which magnifies the degrees to get a more accurate reading. Facing my camera with the button compass I was one tick east. With the modern compass I was facing roughly 120 degrees. Now with the military compass I have pin pointed myself facing exactly 125 degrees.

Now we are going to go to our local park and do some survival drills with our compasses. First I want to talk about my map and how I made it. I started by going to Google Earth and finding the park that I was going to. I found where I wanted to start and oriented the map as north as possible. I then took a screenshot, transferred it to MS Paint, and blew it up to an 8x11 size. Voila. Map. This is good to practice with especially bearing in mind that you aren't going to find topographical maps of a park. The other thing to keep in mind is you can control how zoomed in or out the map is, but if you aren't careful you won't be able to accurately pinpoint mile markers. Another thing to remember is making sure your map is up to date. For a lot of topographical maps this isn't a problem. You also want to be mindful of trees because if they are dense they may blur or cover a path or important map marker.

The first thing I am going to do is look at my surroundings, then look at my map and try to locate specific markers. The first thing I notice is a dirt circle with two ride-on toys. On my map I can clearly locate what looks like a marked off circle with two objects in it so I can say that what is in front of me is that feature on the map. Now I need to figure out what direction this feature is from me. To do this, I am going to set my traditional compass to north, followed by setting my map to north. Now I am going to turn my compass from north, toward the feature, and see what direction I get. My reading shows about 310 degrees.* Now I am going to lay the compass flat on my map and draw a line from my location to the feature I have identified. Now where the lines cross is my location. I appear to be a little off so I need to practice more.

Now we are going to move on to the next feature on the map from the same position I was when we got a bearing on the first feature we identified. I identified this feature, which in this case is a playground set of slides, by determining it's relative location to a very large playground set, a very small playground set, and a bench and trash can. When I take my bearing, it is at about 350 degrees. Now, just like we did previously, I am going to position my compass on the map, and draw the line.

Now that we have located ourselves on the map, we are going to go somewhere with it. I have marked a location on the map that we are going to call the ranger station and I am going to simulate an emergency situation where I need to find the ranger station to get aid. Based on where I am on the map facing as north as I can, and relative to my position from the ranger station on the map I am going to guess the direction I need to go. I am going to guess 315 degrees. I am not going to put my compass on the map and try to get a bearing. If I lock my compass in to 315 degrees, lock myself in north position and draw a line from my position outward on the map I find that I will actually overshoot the ranger station by a few degrees. If I dial it down to about 305 degrees, it gets me pretty close to where I need to go, so I am going to draw a line and go with a bearing of 305 degrees.

Now that I have a line drawn from my location to the ranger station it is important to travel that line on the map and see what features I will come across on my way to my destination. This is important because these features will let me know that I am going in the correct direction if the bearing wasn't enough. The first thing I notice is that my path leads right through a large set of playground equipment. Past that a little ways and to my right is another feature which I cannot identify simply by looking at the map, but we will be able to identify on our walk. Lastly just before I reach my destination there is another set of playground equipment to my left. Now, at the first feature I encounter, instead of walking straight through the playground equipment I am going to instead turn left 90 degrees and walk for a ways, turn right 90 degrees and walk for a ways, and then once again turn right 90 degrees and get back on my bearing of 305 degrees. This allows me to walk around the playground equipment instead of through it. I will show you how to do this without losing your bearing as well.

For my walk I am actually going to be using my button compass. I'm not really staring at it and closely monitoring my direction, I'm just headed generally northwest and using the x's I have placed on my map as I guideline for what features I should be encountering to make sure I am heading in the correct direction. When I encounter my first x, I know that I want to go around it and not through it. I am currently facing northwest, I am going to turn 90 degrees to my left and go southwest. I am going to walk 10-20 paces, enough to get past the equipment, then turn 90 degrees to my right and go northwest once again. I am now going to take another 10-20 paces to get out in front of the playground, turn right 90 degrees now heading in the direction of northeast. After my 10-20 paces I am going to turn 90 degrees to my left and head northwest once again and in my original direction.
Continuing on our original trail I am able to identify the feature that I was to encounter to the right which was another bench. Shortly after it to my left I locate the playground equipment and right in front of me is what we have identified as the ranger station.

That's it for today guys, however before we wrap this up I wanted to take a minute to talk about my backpack (yes, the one from the three day camp). In my backpack right now are just items from the 5 C's. I did have some personal items in there, but I have recently removed them. Now that we are talking about a new set of 5 C's I would like to take some time at the end of the blog if I choose to add an item, and talk about which item and why. Today I am faced with a difficult choice of whether to add the modern compass, or the traditional military style compass. The button compass has earned a special place, not in my pack, but instead in the EDC kit we spent last month building. For right now I am choosing to add the modern compass to my pack. I know we didn't work much with the military compass this blog, but we will in future blogs. I like that I can put the modern compass on the map and still be able to see what I'm doing. I also like the housing dial on it as opposed to the one on the military compass which has two arrows that don't seem to line up when they are supposed to.

Next week in our series we are going to be talking about a compass' best friend and you know you don't want to miss it.As always feel free to comment, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.


*After further review the bearing was NOT 310 instead 290. This was the reason my location was off on my map.