How It's Crafted: Paracord Belt

Let's Wrap It Up: A Review of the Shemagh

This week we will be reviewing the shemagh, a middle eastern head garb that is popular with the soldiers over there because it is very useful in keeping sand out of their faces. We talked earlier about the bandanna being used to cover your face in a dust storm, this item is actually better to serve that purpose. The bottom part of the wrap can be pulled up to keep the sand out of my face and the top can be pulled down to keep the sand out of my eyes. The tighter the shemagh is tied, the better I am prepared. Not only is this useful in a hot environment, you could also use this in a cold environment to help combat wind chill and basically use this as a second scarf. Of course you can wear it as a scarf simply by tying it around your neck.

To tie the head wrap you want to start by folding it diagonally into a triangle just like we did with the bandanna. You are then going to place the long length of the wrap over your head with 1/3 of the length on one side and the other 2/3 on the opposite side. Make sure that your head is cowled like a cloak before you tie it off. You then want to take the short end, wrap it around your chin and hold it in place. Then take the long side and wrap it around your chin in the opposite direction and around the back of your head to meet the end from the short side. You can tie one overhand knot here, but I found that when I did it this way the wrap tended to slip so I recommend two. After that all that is left to do is adjust. It may take you two or three tries, but just get something that is comfortable to you.

Other uses for this fabric? Well it's 42" x 42" of fabric, which means it is a square and can be used as a sling in case of an emergency. This shemagh is definitely bigger than the bandanna fabric that I showed you earlier so I am going to tie this similar to how I did that fabric. I'm going to make a self tightening knot, or a loop, on one end, take the loose end through the loop, place your arm and neck into the sling and adjust. To adjust, all you need to do is pull the loose end until your arm is resting comfortably where it needs to be. Then tie the loose end in an overhand knot around the sling to keep it in place.

I'm not entirely sure if the shemagh is 100% cotton, but I would imagine it is. The texture is very similar to the flour sack towels, but it is just a bit softer. Really though when we're talking about bushcraft stuff we aren't talking about the fashion trend, or how soft it is, we're talking about its function. In addition to keeping the wind and sand off of you, it can also keep your head cool. Back in the day I rocked a turban a few times, not all the time, just a few times. To tie it off, you start it in the back like you do a bandanna, bring the ends around front, tie it off again, turn the knot to the back and tuck in the ends. And there you have a simple turban. This would help my head to regulate temperature. The only downside is that the wrap is very dark. I chose these colors because I am in the eastern woodlands and these colors act better to camouflage me. This can also aid in hunting as a sniper's veil if you drape it over you. As a side note I could also clean with this, but it's not something I actually tested because the fabric is so similar to the flour sack towels that I am not worried about it.

This wraps up the final installment of cotton and also the last of the 10 C's. This is the end of our first arc, the 10 C's of Survivability, An In Depth Look. I'm excited to be done with this, not because I didn't have fun, but now I can bring you my own content that I have actually done my own research on. That won't be next week, but the first of April. I will also be doing a livestream tonight that is March 19th at 11:30 pm EST until 12:05 am. This will be our typical farewell to cotton livestream as well as a farewell to something else and you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Out of the Water and Into the Fire: Utilizing Your Cotton as a Resource

This week we are still moving right along with our cotton series, but I feel that we are finally at the point where we can start testing things out. We are going to see which of these, between your everyday bandanna and the flour sack towel, would be better utilized in an outdoor situation.Utilization could mean  anything from wearing it, cleaning up messes, or first aid uses. I'm looking into what it can do when cut into strips. Specifically what I want to do is see if I can filter water with them, or turn them into char cloth.

What I have to test with is a jar of water with a nice layer of dirt down at the bottom. The water is still slightly discolored even though most of the dirt is down at the bottom. What I am going to do is test and see which between the bandanna and the tea towel will have the most water, and the cleanest water in a period of time. So what I am going to do is place the dirty water on a surface that is elevated above the two clean jars I will be filtering the water into. In this case I just placed a bread pan on my kitchen table, set the dirty water on it, and one clean jar on each side. I then wet the bandanna strip and the flour sack towel strip, place one end into the dirty water, and one end into their respective jars. I then wait about 5 hours and come back to see my results.

As you can see from the picture on the left, that is as much water as I got from the flour sack towel after 5 hours. There was even less water in the bandanna jar. Neither of these did a great job purifying the water, and it took entirely too long. It would be even better to set up a simple tripod water purification system. The next thing we are going to do is try to make charcloth. I've cut a strip of bandanna and a strip of flour sack towel. The flour sack towel I'm sure will make great charcloth because it is 100% cotton. The bandanna I'm not so sure because it does have polyester in it, and I am unsure of how it will affect the composition.

Okay so now for the charcloth, I am again going to cut a strip of each fabric. I am then going to roll them up and place them in my Altoids tin. I would show you how I make charcloth, but I am going to save that for a "How It's Crafted" hopefully to premier in the upcoming weeks. Now as you can see, I have a larger piece of flour sack towel than I do bandanna. This shouldn't be a problem because if the charring process is working correctly you cannot over char.

Upon checking my cloth I notice that both have charred very well. I can tell which is which easily by quantity. But the flour sack towel is still identifiable by the fibers leftover from where it was cut, and the bandanna is identifiable because of how it got thinner as it was cut. Now to see how well each fabric catches a spark with a ferro rod. Both catch well. I will admit in the past that I have had trouble  turning bandanna into charcloth, but it worked this time which is all that matters to me.

I hope you guys are enjoying this cotton series, we are almost done. Next week we are going to be doing a review; it's going to be a pretty cool review and one of the last reviews we will be doing for a while. This will definitely be one of the last reviews for the 10 C's and you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

More Than A Towel: Uses of Cotton in Camp

We are back again this week still talking about our cotton material. One thing I mentioned a lot last week that we will be talking about today are the uses of your cotton material around your camp. Real quick, there are a few things you want to be sure that your cotton material can do such as protecting the back of your neck from the sun, protecting your face from the element, or wearing it like a typical bandanna in case you did not have a hat to protect the top of your head.

Of course these tasks are easy to accomplish with a regular bandanna, so now let's see what we can accomplish with the flour sack towel. It is definitely big enough to wear as a mask and it's bigger than the bandanna so I can actually pull it up over my nose more and tuck it under my chin. With that being said I can pull it up and use it as a bandanna on my head and tie it around my neck to protect it from the sun. Another plus with the flour sack towel is that it is light colored which means it will reflect the sun and not draw it in.


Now when it comes to our last item, we run into the problem that it is just too big. So to even begin to be able to use it as a mask I have to fold it over and over and over. Even afterward, it's just too big and bulky. For that reason I am not even going to try to use it as a bandanna or wear it around my neck. It's just too big.



The next thing I like to do is to try and clean with my cotton material. What I have with me is an old tray and I am first going to try and clean it with the bandanna. I'm not going to use soap, just dip it in a bit of water and use a little bit of elbow grease and the spot I was scrubbing comes away clean. Using the flour sack towel the first thing I notice is that it absorbs water much better than the bandanna. That makes sense to me since that is what it's intended to do. Much like the bandanna it does a fine job cleaning, but it does come away much dirtier than the bandanna did. The large piece of material absorbed much like the bandanna did and still got the job done. The only difference is I have way more clean material to work with after the fact. Having the flour sack towel get dirty was probably the biggest down side, however if you don't mind your cotton material being discolored it doesn't matter anyway.

The next thing I need the cotton material to be able to do is to make a sling. Now with the bandanna it is a smaller piece of fabric so I will need two of them to create a sling. The first thing I need to do is create a triangle with one bandanna and fold two corners of the triangle together and tie them off. Then, I will create a triangle with the second bandanna, place it around my neck, and tie the two corners  around the knot of the other bandanna, and slide my arm through. The problem with this is that it is difficult to adjust, but it will work in a pinch.

Next we will try the large bandanna material. The easiest way to do this after getting a triangle shape is to tie an open loop in one end, one that will tighten as you pull on it, feed the other end through the loop and then place your head and arm into the sling. To adjust it, all you would need to do is pull on the loose end that is through the loop and tie it off where it is the most comfortable. Now we have mentioned before that this is such a bulky piece of material so I am really excited to see how the flour sack towel does.

So for the flour sack towel I am going to fold it into a triangle, and tie two corners of the triangle together into a sturdy knot. I now just have to place my arm in and put it around my neck. It's a little tight around my neck and there is no real way to adjust it, but I don't have to have more than one like with the bandannas and it is not as bulky as the big piece of fabric. It's a solid in between and experiments like this are what make me grow even more fond of these towels.

Guys I've only shown you three simple and easy ways you can use these around your camp, but there are so many more uses like carrying things and using it as spare patching material for sewing. Really there are countless other ways you can apply it. Leave me a comment and let me know what you use your cotton material for or whether you carry cotton material or not and why. Next week we will still be working with cotton but we are going to see what it can do to help us purify our water and  you know you don't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: Another Annoying Hole

Fashion in the Bush?: What to Take as Your Cotton Option

Last week we finished up talking about cargo tape which was our ninth installment of our 10 C's arc. This week we will be talking about the last of the 10 C's of survivability; the last C that David Canterbury has come up with. Today we will be talking about cotton. What I have with me today is just a typical cotton bandanna. You can get a pack of two at Walmart for one dollar making them fifty cents a piece. My older viewers will know that I used to wear a bandanna everywhere I went, however, after some testing, researching, and viewing some very informative videos I have learned that these little things are not as useful as I perceived them to be and they actually have a lot of problems. But we'll get into that another time. Just because bandannas aren't the best, doesn't mean they are the worst. They are easy to find, purchase, and maintain. I typically will fold my bandanna diagonally, drape it around my neck, tie it off, and turn it so the triangular portion is in front of me. It keeps my neck warmer in cold weather and keeps the sun off to prevent sunburn. They come in a variety of colors so I can easily match it to my attire.

The next cotton item I have I was very fortunate to find at Walmart. I have a 3 ft by 3 ft square
section of bandanna fabric that I purchased for $2.50.  This is actually the size that Dave Canterbury recommends you carry. Now it's not an exactly perfect square, but that isn't something that I can't quickly hem up later. Now if I try to wear it the same way I wear my other bandanna, it's way too long, however I can fold it over and wear it like a scarf. It's a little bulky and uncomfortable, but I could dress it up and add a handkerchief holder to it. And there I have my 3 ft by 3 ft square section of cotton that I can wear around my neck and have on hand any time I need it in the bush. And bonus, I look like I have a fancy bushcraft neck tie.

So if the smaller option isn't your taste and the larger option isn't in your taste, I may have a good in between for you. What I have here is a flour sack towel. They are $5 for a pack of 5 at Walmart. Even if you don't take them out side they are still great to use around the house. So these towels are 28" by 29", almost a perfect square and not nearly as large as the 3 ft by 3 ft section of bandanna. When I fold it over and wrap around my neck it is immediately more comfortable and lighter. Where the bandanna fabric is not 100% cotton and there is some polyester in it, the fabric is slick. These towels are not slick at all. I don't like that it is white because I think the appeal of wearing it into the woods is lessened, but I can store it in my pack or fold it up like a handkerchief and keep it in my pocket until I need it. This is definitely my favorite option so far.

I hope you enjoyed the blog this week. Cotton has so many uses around the camp and that is what we'll be talking about next week and you know you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

The Cargo Tape King: Reviewing Gorilla Glue Products

Okay guys, this week the unthinkable has happened; I've broken my axe handle. Now I could drop down and use it the way it is, but I am not going to get any work done. The best course of action would be to replace or repair the handle using Gorilla tape, and maybe even a little Gorilla glue. I wanted to test and see if something like this happened, if I could repair it or if I would have to completely rehang it. Would this be the end of my camp, or could I get this tool to hang on just a bit longer until I could properly repair it? Now this isn't going to be like other reviews we have done in the past. This review is not just on one product, but instead on the Gorilla brand itself and how its products work together.

The products I will be using are the Gorilla Crystal Clear Tape, Gorilla Glue (the same glue I used in the fire starting video), and some black Gorilla Tape for grip. What I am going to do is use the glue to bond the handle back to itself. The bottle states that this glue will bond to wood which is what we need it to do so I am going to be careful to follow the instructions on the bottle.After having it set, I am going to bind the handle with the clear tape about to inches above and two inches below the fracture, similar to when I make sewing repairs. Lastly, I will use the black tape and a grip where my hands will hold the axe to prevent it from slipping while I am working.

To apply the glue you first wet the area that you will be applying the glue to and spread it thin. I did this for the axe handle and spread the glue with a stick. After making sure the two pieces of handle adequately fit together I used to crystal clear tape to bind it in three places across the fracture; the top, middle, and bottom. By doing this it helps clamp the two sides together so they can bond together. I also took apart my chair (which will be featured another time) and laid one piece on the ground, sandwiched the axe between it and the top piece, and used a large rock (though you could use any significantly weighted object like your pack, a large branch, etc...) to place on top of it, again to clamp the two broken pieces together. After letting this sit for two hours, I will come back to check on it.

After two hours, I notice that some of the Gorilla glue has come out of the sides of the break. This is a good thing.  What this means is that the handle had enough pressure on it for the glue to spread out inside the fracture. At this point I wrap the Gorilla crystal clear tape in one continuous wrap from two inches above the break to two inches below. Afterward, and this is an optional step, I used my mini cargo tape roll (the black tape) to create a nonslip grip for my hands. After a few good test swings on a very sturdy tree, I'm convinced that the Gorilla products have done their job.

And that does it for this week. I want to thank everyone reading this for going through this with me and I would also like to think Gorilla brand products. They did not sponsor me or ask me to do this review, but without them I don't think this repair would have been possible. Next week we will be starting on our last C: cotton, and you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: All Tied Up

Burning up the Supplies: Using Cargo Tape for Fire

Last week we talked about making our own raw hide glue. This week I wanted to actually break out the cargo tape. Now, I love cargo tape. It was one of the first C's I started packing with me everywhere I went and it's one of things that I see a lot of people skip on and I never understood why because of all of the benefits you get from packing it with you. It can do so much for you. In today's blog I want to specifically demo its uses in fire making. Now cargo tape can be used for a lot of things like dressing wounds, making repairs, and I have even seen some make rope out of it. We will try some of that next week, but for now I will just demonstrate it's power in a fire kit.

Gorilla brand cargo tape; it is my favorite brand of cargo tape. I think it does an excellent job of bonding things together. I also have Gorilla glue which we will be working with as well. On the bottle it says that it bonds to wood, stone, foam. metal, ceramic, glass, and more. This could be your skin if you really needed it in that sort of situation. Now I have what I call the cargo tape match. I have taken a strip of cargo tape, found the center of it lengthwise and folded one side in half so that the adhesive bonds to itself and left the other side open so that the adhesive is exposed. Now with a lighter and five seconds of flame, the cargo tape is now ablaze. This flame will last you for a while because it will take the cargo tape some time to burn down, but you do want to be cautious holding it because bits of flaming tape will melt off of it. With one quick breath I am able to put this flame out. I have read online where people say that this is a windproof flame. If I am able to blow it out that easily, it is not a windproof flame. This is an extender for your fire. It is not a wind or bad weather match, it is just an extender. If you just can't get your fire to start, this is what you want. Now I have tried catching it with a spark and just couldn't get it to catch, so if you are going to pack this with you, it is best to assume that you are going to need to have direct flame as well.

The next thing I want to show you is the Gorilla glue. I put a dab of it on a wood sliver and much like the cargo tape, with only five seconds of direct flame I have a match. The adhesive in both the cargo tape and the gorilla glue are hydrocarbon which means they want to burn much like fuel. Now what you can do with this when starting a fire is set this burning wood into your bird's nest, place some dry kindling on top, and you are good to go.

Now if I have any one out there who is doing ultra light backpacking, send me a message at bpackbushcraft@gmail.com. What I wanted to show you was that some people prefer to take the Gorilla Tape to Go. In comparison to the cargo tape we used early, it is roughly half the size. But similar to the larger tape it catches a flame all the same.


I hope you enjoyed looking at cargo tape in just a fire kit mentality. If you are wondering how to pack your cargo tape for your fire kit, if you use the Altoids tin that I am so fond of you could wrap your cargo tape around the tin or some people I have seen will just take some and roll it up and store it in the tin. Either way gets an A. Next week we will be looking at the repair and patching side of cargo tape and you know you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: Tarpigami

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: It's Bigger on the Inside

Waiting on Pins and Needles: Review of Sail Makers Needles

Last week we looked at all other possible uses of a canvas needle other than for sewing purposes. This week we will be reviewing the iconic green and white package that is W. Smith and Sons Sail Makers Needles. Before we open into these there are a few things on the outside of the package that I feel are worth pointing out. The first thing I notice is that it says "Manufactured by W. Smith and Sons, Redditch, England." If you recall on the package of Dritz needles we purchased they are labelled as "European quality." This could mean that this brand claims to be of or similar quality to the W. Smith and Sons needles, or it could just be a particular way that the needles are manufactured. Either way, I thought it was worth bringing up. The next thing worth noting is the "forged and hand-made." This to me says that they were manufactured with some sort of human involvement, meaning that there are going to be less imperfections. For the price of these needles, less imperfections are certainly a better deal. Their saying "Made by hand, not to cut the twine," is printed on the package. It is also labelled "Reduced Edge" meaning that the point of the needle is made into a wedge shape so not to fray the thread when going in between the fabric.

The last thing I would like to point out on the package is the qty. 5 and the sizes 13-19. I'm now going to open into the pack to show you what these mean. There are 5 needles with varying lengths and thicknesses, however if I had to estimate the height difference between the smallest and largest needle is roughly 1/4-1/2". Based on diameter I can infer that the smallest needle is the size 13, and the largest is the size 19. I believe the second largest needle to be a size 14 because it appears to be the most versatile. It is about the same length-wise as the 13, but  slightly heftier. This leads me to believe that the other two needles are a size 15 and a size 17. I have arrived at this conclusion because I have seen the needles referred to in odd numbered increments. I also know that David Canterbury and the Self Reliance Outfitters sells a size 14 needle on its own so the sizes 13, 14, 15, 17, and 19, seem to make the most sense.


I have with me some leather, the same leather in fact from last week. My goal is to see how well these needles can awl through leather. Last week I could only get one needle to perform this task and that was a challenge in and of itself. I am going to start with the size 19 needle since it is the biggest and I will believe it will go through the leather easier than any other needle in this set. I am correct in saying that as the needle does go through and it goes through like butter. I tried to awl the leather with both the 13 and the 14 as well and I was just as successful in that endeavor. I am thoroughly impressed by that. If I had thread I would be able to sew the leather or if I need an awl tool on hand I have one.

Since I have my leather out I am going to try to make what is called a leather palm for sewing. The cool thing about this is that I am making it for my needles, but I am going to use my needles to make it. The first thing I am going to do is cut my leather into a strip that takes up most of my palm and is just a bit wider than my palm (I want a bit of excess on both sides of my hand. Now I am going to take the largest needle I have (in this case the 19) and I am going to thread it with frayed bank line. Of course you can use anything you have like paracord or what have you.

Now I am only going to knot my bank line at the tail end, not near the needle, and there is a reason for this. So first I am going to make a hole in the leather with my needle and I am going to pull it through until it stops at the knot I made.






Now I am going to pull the end of the thread that is not knotted through the hole I just made and bring it to the opposite side of the leather. The knot in the other side will keep the bank line from coming loose.






Now I am going to come straight across from the hole I just came through and make another hole keeping the needle in the eye.








Once the bank line is through I am going to make a knot in the end so that it cannot slip back through the hole.








Now I am going to repeat this process two more times on the middle and bottom corners of the leather so that I have three straps of bank line. All I have to do is cinch them down on my hand and I have a leather palm that keeps the needles from digging into my hands when I am using them to awl leather.




Now I am going to test the needles to see how well they can actually sew. I have some canvas and I am going to start with the size 14 needle, the inner strand of some paracord, and I am going to do a simple running stitch. I am pretty satisfied with the results. The grouping is even and looks nice. Next I am going to use the upholstery thread with the size 19 needle. Now this time the gauge of the needle was a little to big for the thread so I am sure that if I had used the size 14 or maybe 15 I would have had better results. I was able to use the needles with the bank line when we made the leather palm, so the only material that leaves is...the jute. As you can see from the photo to your right, I was able to sew with the jute which tells me that if I can make natural cordage in the bush, I can sew with it using these needles.

This needle has awled leather, sewn with every type of material I have given it, and now we need to see if it will perform as a redundant compass. Now you can magnetize your needle using magnets, but I prefer to use a battery. If you are using the battery method, use Duracell batteries. The reason being that I tried the Energizer batteries and the positive end actually repels the compass needle and the negative in pulls in, but the pull is not as strong as the pull from the positive end of the Duracell battery. After 50 swipes of the needle on the Duracell battery I suspended my size 14 needle from a thread and watched as it found north, and now I am going to repeat the test with a bowl of water and a flotation device. Instead of using a tea candle this time I am going to use my new invention which is a bottle cap with a groove cut into it to fit my needle. Once again, it successfully finds north.

As before with the other needles you can use these to clean you nails, teeth, and pull grit out of your equipment. For hunting, fishing, and trapping you could use these as a gig or some type of windless trap for small animals. You could hold down the fish while you could descale it, heck you could descale it with a different needle, and you could also do things like testing your bread dough. For my final thoughts, this set of needles will set you back about $12.99. The other needles will set you back roughly $2. Out of the Dritz pack you will get two half way decent needles, with W. Smith and Sons you are getting 5 high quality needles. If you are just getting into bushcraft I recommend going with the cheaper option to get comfortable using them. Once you get comfortable you can definitely upgrade to the better option. Now the W. Smith and Sons needles are all different sizes, but it is my opinion that you could pretty well divide them up  between your different packs that you may have and  have pretty similar results. Now it is time for The Packening. The first thing I am going to pack is my W. Smith and Sons needles because I have been using canvas needles for a while and I need to upgrade. I will be taking along with that: the bottle cap floating device, the upholstery thread, a thimble, and my sewing palm.

And with that we have reached the end of our canvas needle series. I had a blast doing this, although I think I say that every time. Next week we will begin our cargo tape series. I have a lot to show you and you won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: Ready, Aim, Misfire

Getting to the Point: Other Uses for Canvas Needles in Survival Situations

Last week we looked at different fabric and threading materials. This week we are going to look at our canvas needle as a multi purpose tool to really see what this thing can do. You may have several ideas spring to mind, number one being a compass. To start off with I am going to show you a few things you can pack to make sure you have a compass with you at all times.

The first thing you want is a AA battery and to make sure that your battery has power, you can hold the positive end to your compass and move it around to see if your compass needle will follow it. If it does, you have a good battery. I am now going to take an iron or steel sewing needle and I am going to swipe the tip against the tip of the positive end of the battery about 40-50 times. This magnetizes the needle. The next thing I am going to need is a tea light candle. Now if you remember in the candle blog I said that I wasn't going to pack a tea light candle, however, I am going to keep one wherever I keep my needle because I will be using it as a flotation device. Now I am placing my candle in the bowl of water and placing the needle on top of it. At this point it is as simple as waiting for the magnetized end of the needle to find north.

Now there are other ways to create a compass without having to float your needle. If you use some of the thread you have with you like I recommended in the last blog, you can tie a loop around the middle of your magnetized needle. You'll have to be careful to make sure that your needle is parallel to the floor for this to work. Now it will begin spinning but when it comes to a stop the magnetized end will be pointing north. It's a little creepy.

You could think of it as a cleaning/maintenance tool. You could use it to clean under your nails. You could roll or scrape debris out of an open would to prevent an infection. With that being said you could use it to patch yourself up with stitches or field medicine, but I think, or at least I really hope, we're a long ways away from having to practice field medicine.You could use it as a toothpick or if you get cysts like I get in my earlobes, you can use it as a lance. You could use it to pick out splinters or other foreign objects from your skin as well.

Now we are getting into the realm of fishing and trapping. Some people would tell you to heat it up and turn it over into a fish hook, but I am not one of those people. You would have to get it very hot and bend it very slowly because it would snap. I do think that it would work well as a gouge hook if you had something to help it float and prevent it from sinking to the very bottom. Theoretically you could put multiple needles together and use it as a frog gig. These ideas are all fine and good, however, if you're fishing for survival I think your best bet is going to be some type of netting system. You could use this in a windless trap for small rodents so it will stab them in the head and pin them down. I wouldn't recommend using it with a mouse trap though as it would likely break.

In terms of cooking you could use your needle to test if your dough is cooked all the way through. You could use it to pin your fish to a board if you choose to cook it or descale it that way. You may even be able to use your needle to descale the fish. If your needle was thick enough and able to bear the weight, you could use it as a toggle for your water bottle when you are boiling water over your fire. Of course you should be sure to test all of your equipment at home before taking it out and trying it in the field.

Well, I am now out of ideas for what you could possibly use a needle for. If you have any more ideas feel free to comment and tell me. I would love to hear your ideas. Next week will be our first review of 2018. We are going to review my Walmart canvas needle vs. some other canvas needles. Now the ones I've purchased are supposed to be the same ones the Dave Canterbury uses but I was unable to purchase them off of his website so I purchased them off of Amazon so they would arrive a little quicker. Either way, you know you don't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.

Bumbling Bushcraft Comic: Swing and a Miss

Survival Sewing: Testing Sewing Materials for Survival

Last week we opened into our homecraft sewing kit and practiced some very basic stitches that you can pick up and learn easily. This week we are going to look at sewing for survival in terms of making repairs by using different threading materials on different types of fabric. This way we will see which thread is best for which type of fabric.

To explain the parameters of the test, I am going to be using two different types of needle, a canvas needle and a sail needle, and use various different threads on various fabrics you may need to repair in a survival situation. The thread I will be using is the upholstery thread from last week (this will act as our control thread), the inner strands of paracord, a smaller strand of unraveled bankline, and some jute twine that will act as natural cordage. The fabric I have selected is the pillow sham we used last week, (this will act as our control fabric), denim, canvas, and supple and non-supple leather. We will be sewing the fabric together using a running stitch. If we are unable to perform the running stitch then we will attempt the whip or loop stitch. We will then be testing the strength of the thread and the fabric by trying to pull it apart.

After preparing all of my materials I am going to begin with the canvas needle, the upholstery thread, and the pillow sham. The running stitch with both the canvas and sail needle was very strong on the pillow sham as I expected of the control group. The upholstery thread performed well on the denim with both needles as well. I did have one issue when using the upholstery thread with the sail needle on the canvas. The stitches did begin to pull apart, but I do believe it was my sewing rather than the thread not being strong enough. I didn't have any problems with the canvas needle however. The leather I did not believe would hold the upholstery thread when I began to sew with the canvas needle so I didn't even try with the sail needle.

 Now we will go through the fabric again, this time with the inner strand of paracord. I was able to sew the pillow sham with both the canvas needle and the sail needle, however, the inner strand of the paracord was so strong and thick that when I began to pull it apart, it actually ripped the fabric around it. The experiment was also successful for both denim and canvas with both needles. The paracord was strong and held the material well. I was able to do a whip stitch into the leather with the sail needle. The difficulty I was having was getting the needle to pierce the leather. I would have had more luck if I had an awl. As for the paracord, it was able to hold the leather together.

Similar to when I sewed the pillow sham with the paracord, the bank line was so thick and strong that it caused the fabric around it to rip. Unlike the paracord, I am able to break down the bank line into finer strands. This may be more compatible with the pillow sham, but that is an experiment for another day. I had great success with both needles, the bank line and the denim. Unfortunately when using the bank line with the canvas, it ripped with both needles. Again I believe that if I broke the bank line down into finer strands I would have more success, but for this test I would consider this a fail. The canvas needle was able to do a whip stitch with the bank line and it held the leather well.

The jute twine was so thick that I was unable to pull it through any of the fabric, including the leather, with either needle. I did attempt to unravel the jute in the beginning into finer strands, however, the finer strands by themselves are so weak that they will break if you pull on them.

After finishing the test I compiled a chart with all of the data. On the left side of the chart is my fabric material and at the top are the thread materials I used. Each box has a section for the canvas needle and the sail needle. Basically if the combination of needle, thread and fabric was a success I marked it with a check. If the combination was a failure, I marked it with an X. The winner between the two needles was definitely the canvas needle since it was able to make a hole in the leather as well as use all of the same materials as the sail needle even though it was narrower. And the upholstery thread was definitely the handiest of all of our threading material since it was able to sew and hold almost all of the fabric material well.

Next week we will be looking at our needle not just as a sewing tool, but as a  multipurpose tool. What else can this sewing needle do for us in a survival situation? You won't want to miss it! As always feel free to comment by clicking the comment link at the end of the blog, hit the follow button in the top right corner, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one on Sunday 10pm (est). If you want to keep up with me and what I’m doing, Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Lastly if video is more your style check out my YouTube Channel backpack bushcraft where there is a video version of this with the same title. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.