Pitch the Tent and Use a Tarp: Easy Tarp Set Ups for Beginners

I’m going to let everyone in on a little secret. I don’t like tents. The only advantage I can see they provide is bug proofing, and there are other ways around that. The water proof floor does more harm than good during the rain, because the tent leaks onto the floor. The head height is awful, and I just feel smothered in a tent, even with the door flap open, which defeats the bug proof barrier. Since my last disaster in a tent, long story; another blog, I have chosen to use tarps. Setting up a tarp is like setting up a tent. A tent goes up one way and most are the same. A tarp can have a variety of different set ups and each can require specific resources or settings to do, and some are better than other depending on the circumstances (weather, hammocks, fires etc). Now before you try to go and crawl back into that tent let me show you some of these set ups, and prove to you it isn’t that bad. Now that we have our squared up tarps, it’s time to learn some set ups. A tarp set up is just that, a way in which your tarp is to be set up. But they become a little more than that if you know more than one set up.

Today I am going to show you 4 different set ups and explain what each one would be the best suited for, but before I get to that I want to show you what we will be working with today. Besides your square 8x8 tarp that we made last week, click here if you missed out, we will also be working with 6 tent stakes with 3’ of bank line on each. The stakes will secure my tarp to the ground making a ridge, helping it sheet off the water and give me more room inside. Choose black or metal stakes. Don’t get those ultra-light ones; they bend easily. Dave Canterbury has stated that the plastics are more durable, and I would agree however Walmart doesn’t carry them so neither do I.

When cordage is mentioned during shelter making, it typically refers to ridge lines. Ridge lines, are a cordage running between 2 points, typically trees, by being tied off. A ridge line’s job is to give the tarp support in making a peak. Most tarp set ups use a ridge line, which leads us into the two knots I used with my ridge line. The Siberian hitch (or witch) knot and the Trucker’s Hitch. The Siberian Hitch Knot, SHK, is a mooring knot, meaning that it will hold around the tree truck and not let go until undone. The Trucker’s Hitch is a tightening knot, used to make my ridge line tauter. I will explain about how to do these knots later but I recommend you watch someone do them. Cordage to use could be bank line or Para cord.

Now let’s start with my favorite. This set up is known as the “Plow” or “Plow Point”, the name comes from its resemblance to a plow once the shelter has be made. This shelter is one of my favorites for the amount of floor space, head and height clearance, but most importantly no ridge line.  As you start with tarp shelters, ridge lines can become a tiring chore to accomplish due to finding trees adequately spaced apart. However for the “Plow” all that is need is 1 tree, preferably with a fork. To start you want to place one tent stake through any corner grommet and place that into the fork in the tree. If you don’t have one, like in my yard, then tying a loop onto the tree will work fine as well. Just something that will hold the tent stake in place. Next you want to take the diagonal grommet in the corner and pull it taut. Place a tent stake into this garment and then into the ground. Remember to place the tent stake at a 45 degree angle instead of 90. The other two corners are to also be pulled taut then staked the same way as the last. Once done, you can crawl in and start putting your sleeping system into place. It is also great for surprise rainstorms. I can put this configuration up in in about 1 min. This is a great first set up to know. The disadvantages would be that you may not have a floor, which can be a pain if the ground is damp. Also it can only be done with a square tarp, although I would bet that using a rectangle wouldn’t affect it too much, but I haven’t tried.

Moving on to the next set up, this one is known as a “fly”. A fly is when then tarp is raised off the ground. This can be good for hammocks or used as a sunshade. The advantages for this one are nice and breezy, can adjust the amount of head room to almost standing height if you wanted, and is as simple as working with a clothes line. First you will need to set up a ridge line, like I described earlier. Next you want to take the tarp and place it over the ridge line until it is equal on both sides. Next you want to stake out each corner, you will have to use the cordage on the tent stakes to get it taut enough. It may take a few minutes and adjustments to be constructed properly. However, once completed you have a nice place to work out of either the sun or rain. Disadvantages would be lack of floor, and the breeze if you were trying to stay warm.

 Now working off this design we can make another set up. Similar to a pup tent, you can lower the ridge line and instead of stakes place large rocks on the corners and middle grommets to hold your tarp in place. This will get you a more contained space making it easier to heat up and maintain that body heat. Also if you forget, lose, or break your tent stakes you aren’t completely up the creek. You can use a rectangle tarp in this configuration as well. Also you could turn it diagonal and stake out two opposite corners, tie off the other
two and make a diamond. Great for hammocks, especially when it rains. Disadvantages are no floor and very little head room. Remember anywhere you sleep outside, with or without a floor needs some kind of spacing object to get your body 4 inches off the ground when compressed. This will prevent your body heat from leaving you and going into the ground. Leaves would work the best if you didn’t bring anything else. I have other ideas too, but that’s another blog

Last one is the “Open C” It is called this due to when looking at the finished product from the side it resembles a C. I know, crazy stuff. However, it can be a great set up to learn. It has 3 parts, the floor, the ceiling, and the wall. Each part uses lengths of the tarp differently and can change depending on the circumstances. To start though, you’ll want to make a ridge line, and throw about 1/3 over it. Make sure that you have about 1/3 flat on the ground. Stake in right underneath the ridge line or as close to that as you can. Next go to a side grommet and stake it where your floor stops and wall begins, again or close to that. Finally you will want to use a little extra cordage and stake off the two corner grommets and pull them out until the roof is taut and has the pitch you want. Adjustments can make this shelter really powerful. For instance bringing the roof in more can help hold in heat from a fire or lowering the ridge line allows you to make a “Pup Tent” with the floor. The disadvantages are that it can have a bad draft depending on the set up and rain can come in also with a bad set up.

This blog was a joy to write and I hope you enjoyed it too. Tarps cost less that 10 bucks, even for a
good one, and if you modify it the way I showed you in my last blog you can use even more set ups. In the future I’ll show you all some more, but this is a good start. Next week we will be going over items to make your shelter better, plus an easy way to store it all. As always feel free to comment, share this blog, and check back next week for a new one. Follow me on Facebook: @BPackBushcraft and on Twitter @BPackBushCraft. Until next time, keep those fires burning and put another log on for me.